New and Improved
Meade Superwedge Mount Stabilizer
1- Introduction
Having a stable mount is critical to doing astrophotography. Since moving to Tucson Arizona (North latitude 32 degrees) I have discovered that my Meade Superwedge is not as stable as I would like. This is the third generation design of my mount stabilizer. Now it functions as I originally hoped it would, by both dampening vibration and by making the mount more ridged. It is noticeably better than without the stabilizer, especially with my scope loaded down with a guide scope, autoguider and counter weights.
2- How to build it
I got the idea to build this stabilizer from Ed Stewarts webpage . My design cost me about $45 to make and took only about two hours to build.
Here is a complete list of all the parts needed to make this stabilizer for the Meade Superwedge and the standard tripod. If you are making it for the 12 " LX200, you will need to modify the dimensions of some parts marked with an *. I found all these parts at my local Ace Hardware store. These are all common things found in the plumbing and hardware departments.
(2) *27" long 1/2" galvanized pipe threaded on each end. (You will need the hardware store to cut these for you)
(4) 1/2" threaded galvanized end caps
(2) 5" Steel angle bar
(2) 3 1/2" Steel angle bar
(2) *1 1/2" PVC to 1 1/2" PVC Rubber coupling
(2) 1" PVC end cap
(2) 3" long 5/8" carriage bolt
(2) 1" long 5/8" carriage bolt
(8) 5/8" nuts
(4) 5/8" wing nuts
(2) 1" long 1/4" bolt
(2) 1/4" washer
(2) 1/4" locking nut
(1) 10 feet of 1/4" cable
(2) Turnbuckles
(4) 1/4" eye bolts and nuts
(1) 25 pound steel barbell weight
Tools needed:
Hacksaw (to shorten the steel angle bars if desired)
Drill with 5/8" bit and a 1/4" bit
Knife or scissors.
Screw driver
How to build it:
Step 1: Remove one of the two bolts that attaches to the pivot point on the Superwedge. Place one of the 5" steel angles in between the Superwedge and the bolt. Re-thread the bolt back into the superwedge. Do the same to the other side. Note, it may be necessary to make the hole larger on the steel angle. Simply find a drill bit the same diameter as the bolt and drill it out.
Step 2: Drill a 5/8" hole in the center of each of the 1/2" threaded galvanized end caps. In two of these end caps place the 3" long bolt through so the threads are sticking out to the outside. Thread a nut down and tighten it so it is locked into place. For the other two end caps, thread one nut all the way down each of the 1" long 5/8" bolts. Then place the 1" bolt into the cap so that the threads are sticking into the inside of the cap. Take another 5/8" nut from the inside of the cap and tighten them down.
Step 3: Thread one end cap with the 3" bolt on each galvanized pipe. Then thread the remaining end caps on the other side of the pipe. There is no need to use a wrench tighten these, just use your hands.
Step 4: Remove the two steel bands from each of the rubber couplings. Take a sharp knife or scissors and cut length-wise all the way through the rubber so that the coupling can fit over the tripod leg. Reinstall the steel bands but don't tighten them yet.
Step 5: Drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of each of the 1" PVC end caps. Then bolt each of these end caps to the 3 1/2" steel angle bar using the 1/4" bolts and nuts.
Step 6: Mount the 3 1/2" steel angles with the 1" PVC end caps, through the inside of the two steel bands of the rubber coupling as seen in the picture below.
Step 7: Now put the Superwedge on the tripod like normal. Then place the galvanized pipe assemblies so that the 3" bolt is sticking up through the 5" steel angle as shown in the pictures. Because these pipes will be pushing up on the Superwedge, you need to put one of the 5/8" wing nuts upside down on the bolt first. Then place the other end of the galvanized pipe assembly into the 1" PVC end cap which is attached to the rubber coupling at the bottom of the tripod leg. Back the wing nut up until it makes contact with the 5" steel angle.
Step 8: Tighten the wing nuts against the 5" steel angle until the galvanized pipe assembly are firmly in place. Firmly finger tight is fine.
Step 9: Wrap the cable around and connect each end to the ends of the turnbuckle fastening them with the appropriate cable fasteners. Make sure you have enough slack to bring the bolt ends of the turnbuckles together, but not to much that when the turnbuckles are tight, there is significant tension on the cables.
Step 10: Carefully place a 25 pound steel barbell weight in the center of the tripod ties as show below. The extra weight helps by putting force both downward on the whole tripod assembly, and by putting force to bring the tripod legs together helping to dampen vibration by adding mass.
Step 11: Enjoy a more stable mount.
3- How well does it work?
This mount stabilizer seems to work very well in terms of dampening vibration, and making the mount more ridged. It is a bit of a pain to set up, so it is best to do before it gets too dark. With practice it gets easier when you remember the order in which the tripod and mount stabilizer must be assembled. I have found that the extra 5 minutes of setup is well worth the investment in terms of more accurate tracking and less vibration.
Comments: ckvedeler@access4less.net
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